Quilt bindingcalculator
Enter your quilt size and strip width. You get the number of strips to cut, the length of binding you need, the fabric to buy and a cutting layout, for straight-grain or continuous bias binding.
QuiltHelperEnter a quilt width and length greater than zero.
Fabric to buy
1⁄2yard
Exact: 0.49 yards, rounded up to the next 1/8 yard
Cut 7 strips, each 21⁄2" × 42", and join them end to end with diagonal seams. That makes 279" of binding for the 276" you need.
Compare binding types
Same quilt and strip widthCutting layout
Binding for common quilt sizes
With 2½" strips, 42" usable fabric width, diagonal joins and 12" extra for corners and the join.
Swipe the table sideways to see every column.
| Quilt | Size | Binding needed | Strips | Straight grain | Bias square | Bias fabric |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Baby | 36" × 48" | 180" | 5 | 3⁄8 yd | 231⁄2" | 3⁄4 yd |
| Throw | 50" × 65" | 242" | 7 | 1⁄2 yd | 27" | 3⁄4 yd |
| Lap | 60" × 72" | 276" | 7 | 1⁄2 yd | 281⁄2" | 7⁄8 yd |
| Twin | 70" × 90" | 332" | 9 | 5⁄8 yd | 31" | 7⁄8 yd |
| Queen | 90" × 108" | 408" | 11 | 7⁄8 yd | 34" | 1 yd |
| King | 108" × 108" | 444" | 12 | 7⁄8 yd | 351⁄2" | 1 yd |
How to use this calculator
- Measure the finished quilt. Measure after quilting and trimming, through the middle in both directions. Or pick a common size.
- Choose the binding type. Straight-grain strips suit straight edges. Continuous bias is for curved or scalloped edges.
- Pick your strip width and fabric width. 2½" strips and 42" usable fabric are the most common.
- Cut and join. Cut the strips shown, join them end to end, then press and sew the binding on. Buy the yardage shown, which is already rounded up.
How the binding math works
Binding runs all the way around the quilt, so the starting point is the perimeter. Extra length is added for the corners and the final join. Each diagonal join between strips uses about one strip width of length.
Binding needed = 2 × (width + length) + extraStrips = (binding needed − join loss) ÷ (fabric width − join loss), rounded upJoin loss = strip width for diagonal joins, ½" for straight joinsFabric = strips × strip width, rounded up to the next 1/8 yardBias square = √(binding needed × strip width) + 2", rounded up to ½"Example: a 60" × 72" lap quilt, 2½" strips, 42" fabric.
Perimeter 2 × (60 + 72) = 264", plus 12" extra = 276" of binding.
7 strips joined on the diagonal give 279", enough for 276".
Fabric: 7 × 2½" = 171⁄2", so buy 1⁄2 yard.
For bias binding, cut a 281⁄2" square, which needs 7⁄8 yard.
Straight grain or bias binding?
Straight-grain binding is cut across the width of the fabric, from selvage to selvage. It is quick to cut, uses the least fabric and works for any quilt with straight edges, which is most quilts.
Bias binding is cut at 45° to the grain, so it stretches. That stretch lets it curve smoothly around rounded corners, scallops and curved edges. Continuous bias binding is made from a square that is sewn into a tube and cut in one long spiral, which avoids sewing many short bias strips together. Some quilters also like bias binding on heirloom quilts because the threads run diagonally along the edge, which can wear more evenly.
Choosing a strip width
- 2" strips make a narrow binding, often used on mini quilts and wall hangings.
- 2¼" strips are a popular choice for a crisp, narrow double-fold binding on cotton batting.
- 2½" strips are the most common width and suit most bed and lap quilts.
- 2¾"–3" strips help when the batting is thick, such as wool or high-loft polyester, so the binding still wraps the edge comfortably.
Your seam allowance and how firmly the binding is folded also change the finished look, so make a short test piece if you are unsure.
Common binding mistakes
- Measuring before trimming. Measure the quilt after it is quilted and trimmed square.
- Forgetting the joins. Diagonal seams use length. Skipping this is a common reason binding comes up a few inches short.
- Too little extra. Less than 10" leaves no room to join the ends neatly.
- Mixing strip widths. Cut every strip the same width so the binding finishes evenly.
- Assuming 44" fabric is 44" usable. Trim the selvages and measure what is left.
Questions about quilt binding
How much binding do I need for a queen size quilt?
A 90" × 108" queen quilt needs 408" of binding once you add 12" for the corners and the join. With 2½" strips cut from 42" fabric that is 11 strips, or 7⁄8 yard. Enter your own quilt size above for an exact figure.
What width should I cut binding strips?
2¼" and 2½" are the most common widths for double-fold binding on cotton quilts. Many quilters go up to 2½"–3" for thick or wool batting, and down to 2" for small quilts and wall hangings. Whatever you choose, cut every strip the same width.
How much extra binding should I add?
10"–12" is usual. It covers the fabric taken up by the four mitered corners and leaves a tail at each end so you can join them neatly. If your corners or joins tend to run long, add more; extra binding costs very little.
Do I need bias binding?
Only if your quilt has curved or scalloped edges. Bias binding stretches around curves. For straight edges, straight-grain strips cut across the width of fabric are quicker and use less fabric.
Why join binding strips on the diagonal?
A diagonal (45°) seam spreads the bulk of the seam allowance along the binding instead of stacking it in one spot, so the join lies flat when the binding is folded. It uses a little more length than a straight seam, which the calculator includes.
Other calculators
How we check this calculator: strip counts and bias squares are tested against hand-worked results for standard quilt sizes, including quilts so large that the bias square has to be split, and thousands of random sizes are checked so the binding is never short. Fabric amounts always round up. Last checked November 2026.